Find & Fix Your Pool Leak — The Simple Way

The fastest way to burn money is guessing. PoolLeakFix helps you get proof first (bucket test),
understand the pattern (pump on/off + stop level), and then schedule a local leak specialist
when the numbers say it’s real.

Start here if you’re unsure: Bucket Test Guide ·
Leak vs Evaporation ·
Talk to a Leak Pro

Start here (2 minutes to pick the right next move)

  1. Do the bucket test (proof test).
    If the pool drops more than the bucket, treat it like leak behavior.
    Run the bucket test step-by-step.
  2. Identify the pattern.
    The pattern tells you where to look:
    overnight loss,
    air/bubbles symptoms,
    or a dye test at a suspected fitting.
  3. Schedule detection when it’s clearly a leak.
    Leak detection is usually faster and cheaper than “trial repairs.”
    Request a local specialist.

What PoolLeakFix does (and what it does not)

  • DIY clarity: We show you the bucket test and how to read it in plain English.
  • Smarter troubleshooting: We help you use pump-on vs pump-off behavior, stop level clues, and symptom patterns.
  • When you’re ready: We connect you with independent leak detection specialists in your area.
  • No pressure: You always decide who to hire (or whether to hire anyone).

Confused about who to call? Read: Leak Detection vs Equipment Repair vs Pool Service.

Most common “my pool is losing water” scenarios

1) Pool loses water even when the pump is OFF

This often points to a structure / fitting / waterline issue (skimmer throat, light niche, return fitting, tile line),
or a line that leaks without pressure. Your fastest proof step is the bucket test.

2) Water loss is worse when the pump is ON

That pattern often points to pressure-side plumbing, a feature line (spa spillover / waterfall),
or something at the pad. If you can, do a simple “2 hours on / 2 hours off” comparison and write it down.

3) The pool stops dropping at one exact level

A stop level is a huge clue. Wherever it stops (tile line, light, skimmer mouth) is usually near the leak elevation.
Next step: dye test near fittings at that exact height.

4) Wet spot / sinkhole / washed-out sand near the pool

Water can travel under decking before it shows up. Pair “wet spot” with pump-on vs pump-off behavior for a stronger signal.
Helpful: wet spot near pool guide.

Choose your state

Florida is live first (city + county coverage). If you’re outside Florida, you can still use the DIY guides and schedule help.

Florida

City-by-city pool leak guides and fast ways to reach local pros.

See Florida leak locations

Texas

Hot weather can mimic leaks. Start with proof first.

Run the bucket test

Arizona

Dry air + wind can pull water fast. Use the test to confirm what’s real.

Bucket test guide

California

Backyard pools, HOAs, and long seasons — start with proof then schedule if needed.

Start with the bucket test

Want a local page? Use search on the site or start with Need a Leak Pro.

Pool leak FAQ

How do I tell if it’s a leak or just evaporation?

Run a proper bucket test. If the pool consistently drops more than the bucket over ~24 hours,
that’s leak behavior.

How much water loss is “normal”?

It depends on sun, wind, humidity, water temp, and splash-out. If you’re losing inches every few days — especially if the pool beats the bucket —
suspect a leak and stop guessing.

What should I measure before I call a leak specialist?

Your bucket test result, inches lost per day, pump run time, whether loss changes pump on/off, any stop level, and any wet spots or bubbles.
That info speeds up diagnosis.

Is leak detection destructive?

Most pros start non-destructive: listening, dye, cameras, and line pressure testing. If any cutting is needed, you should get options and costs first.


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