PoolLeakFix • DIY Leak Testing

How to Do a Bucket Test for Pool Leaks (Step-by-Step)

The bucket test is one of the simplest ways to answer a basic question:
is my pool losing water faster than evaporation alone?
You don’t need special tools—just a bucket, a marker, and 24 hours of normal pool operation.

What the Bucket Test Actually Tells You

The bucket test compares how much water your pool loses to how much water a bucket loses sitting in the same
conditions. If both drop about the same amount, the loss is likely just evaporation. If your pool drops
noticeably more than the bucket, that’s a strong sign of a leak.

For a bigger-picture overview of what’s normal in Florida, you can also see
Is My Pool Leaking or Is It Just Evaporation?.

What You Need

  • A sturdy plastic bucket (5-gallon style works well).
  • A waterproof marker, grease pencil, or small strip of painter’s tape.
  • At least 24 hours of normal pool operation.

Optional but helpful:

Step 1: Set Up the Bucket Test

  1. Bring the pool to normal level.
    Fill it to where you usually keep the waterline (mid-skimmer or tile line).
  2. Fill the bucket.
    Fill the bucket about 3/4 full with pool water.
  3. Place the bucket on a step.
    Set it on the second step so it sits securely with part of the bucket underwater. This helps
    keep the water inside the bucket at a similar temperature to the pool.
  4. Match the levels.
    Adjust the water inside the bucket so it’s roughly level with the water outside in the pool.
  5. Mark both levels.

    • Mark the water level inside the bucket.
    • Mark the pool water level on the tile or inside the skimmer throat.

Step 2: Run the Pool Like You Normally Do

Let the pool run under normal conditions for at least 24 hours:

  • Same pump schedule.
  • Heater on or off the way you usually use it.
  • Water features (spa spillovers, fountains, bubblers) set as usual.

A full 24 hours is ideal. If you can run it for 48 hours, you’ll get an even
clearer reading, especially on milder days when evaporation is slower.

Step 3: Measure the Drop

  1. After 24 hours, check the mark inside the bucket and mark where the water ended up.
  2. Check the mark on the pool side and mark the new pool water level.
  3. Measure or estimate how far each dropped (a small ruler or tape measure is helpful, but even a visual
    comparison is better than nothing).

This doesn’t have to be exact down to the millimeter. You’re mainly looking for whether the pool is dropping
roughly the same as the bucket—or clearly more.

How to Read Bucket Test Results

  • Pool drop ≈ Bucket drop
    Your pool is likely losing water at about the same rate as pure evaporation in your conditions.
    That suggests you’re not dealing with a major leak.
  • Pool drop >> Bucket drop
    If the pool water level dropped significantly more than the bucket, that’s a strong indication of a leak
    somewhere in the system.

If you’re seeing borderline differences, run the test again for another 24 hours or repeat it under different
conditions (pump off, features off) to see if the pattern repeats.

Variations: Pump On/Off and Features On/Off

You can learn even more by repeating the bucket test with different settings. This is where those “Tier-4”
ideas like pump off, spa running, and autofill disabled come into play.

  • Bucket test with pump off:
    If the pool drops faster than the bucket with the pump off, the issue may be in the
    shell, skimmer, or fittings (not the pressure side plumbing).
  • Bucket test with pump on, features off:
    If the pool drops faster with the pump circulating but features off, that can point toward
    plumbing leaks in the circulation lines.
  • Bucket test with spa running / features on:
    If the loss jumps when water features or a spa spillover are running, the leak may be tied to those
    specific lines—or it may just highlight how much extra evaporation aeration creates.
  • Bucket test with autofill disabled:
    Always turn autofill off when you’re testing. Otherwise, it will hide real water loss by
    constantly topping off the pool.

Common Bucket Test Mistakes

  • Leaving the autofill on:
    An autofill will hide loss by constantly topping off the pool. Turn it off for the entire test.
  • Changing pump schedules mid-test:
    Keep operation as consistent as possible while you test so you’re not mixing apples and oranges.
  • Short runs:
    A few hours isn’t enough. Aim for a full 24 hours or longer.
  • Bucket in full sun, pool in full shade (or vice versa):
    Try to place the bucket where conditions match the pool surface as closely as possible.
  • Forgetting to record your setup:
    Make a quick note: pump on/off, features on/off, heater on/off. It makes interpreting the results much easier.

What to Do If the Bucket Test Suggests a Leak

If the pool consistently drops more than the bucket—especially with the pump off, autofill disabled, and features
off—assume you’re dealing with a leak instead of normal evaporation.

Next steps:

A bucket test doesn’t tell you exactly where the leak is, but it does tell you whether the loss is beyond normal
evaporation. That’s usually the point where getting a leak detection pro involved is cheaper than ignoring it.

Bottom Line

The bucket test is a simple, low-cost way to find out whether your pool is just evaporating or truly leaking.
By comparing the pool’s water loss to a small “mini-pool” in the same conditions, you can quickly see if you’re
in the normal range or clearly outside it.

Combine your bucket test results with what you see around the deck, equipment, and yard. When the numbers and
the warning signs line up, treat it like a leak and move toward a proper diagnosis. Catching it now is almost
always cheaper than waiting for soft soil, cracked decks, or surprise water bills to force your hand.

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