Do You Really Need a New Pump or Just a Replumb?

Quick Takeaways

• Visible water at the unions and PVC fittings doesn’t automatically mean your pump is “dead.”
• In many cases, the pump leak started with a pool leak that dropped the water level, pulled air, and overheated the plumbing.
• If the pump housing isn’t cracked and the motor still runs well, a simple replumb might be all you need.
• Don’t replumb first if you still have an active pool leak — you can cook the new plumbing, too.
• New pump vs replumb is not just a money question; it’s a sequence question: leak → then plumbing → then upgrades.

Common Symptoms That Make People Think “New Pump”

Here’s what homeowners usually notice first:

• Pump basket full of bubbles or air that never fully clears.
• Gurgling skimmer, especially when the water gets low.
• Pump surging, losing prime, or sounding harsher than usual.
• Drips or wet spots at the unions on the suction or return side.
• Pool pro or neighbor says, “Looks like you need a new pump.”

Those symptoms can happen with a failing pump, but they are also classic signs of cooked plumbing caused by a leak in the pool. Before you commit to the big purchase, it’s worth taking a closer look.

If you haven’t already read it, start with:
Pump Sucking Air? Why That Little Leak at the Pump Points to a Bigger Problem

When You Probably Do Need a New Pump

There are times when replacing the whole pump is the right call. Signs your pump itself may be at the end of its life:

• Motor won’t start or trips the breaker repeatedly, even after basic checks.
• Loud grinding, screeching, or metal-on-metal sounds from the motor or bearings.
• Visible cracks in the pump housing (wet end) that leak under pressure.
• Severe rust, corrosion, or obvious physical damage to the pump body.
• Pump is very old, inefficient, and struggling to keep up even when everything is primed and tight.

In those situations, it can make sense to:

• Replace the pump with a modern, efficient unit, and
• Tighten up the plumbing at the same time so the new pump isn’t hooked to old, cooked fittings.

But if your main issues are air leaks and drips around the pump, it’s worth ruling out the cheaper fix first.

When a Replumb Is Usually Enough

If the pump still runs smoothly and quietly once it’s fully primed, and the wet end isn’t cracked, there’s a good chance your main problem is warped unions and fittings around the pump.

Signs you might only need a replumb:

• The leak is clearly at a union, coupler, or glued joint, not coming through the pump housing itself.
• The motor sounds normal and moves water fine when you manage to get a solid prime.
• There’s a history of the pool running with low water and gurgling skimmer.
• Pipes around the pump look slightly warped, discolored, or “twisted” from heat.

In cases like this, a good repair tech (or confident DIYer) can often:

• Cut out the cooked section.
• Install new unions/fittings using 1½” or 2″ PVC, depending on your pad.
• Rebuild a tight, clean plumbing run into and out of the pump.

That’s a much smaller bill than a full pump replacement, especially if your existing pump still has years of life left.

The Non-Negotiable Step: Check for a Leak First

Whether you end up with a new pump or a simple replumb, one rule doesn’t change:

Don’t pay to replumb the pump until you’ve ruled out or addressed a leak in the pool.

If the pool keeps leaking, the water will keep dropping, the skimmer will keep pulling air, and your equipment will keep running hot. That’s how you cook brand new plumbing and start the cycle all over again.

The right sequence is:

1. Confirm leak: Run a bucket test and basic checks.
   How to Run a Bucket Test »
2. Understand the leak: If it looks like a real leak, talk to a leak detection pro.
   Connect with a Leak Pro »
3. Then address the equipment plumbing: Replumb, repair, or upgrade the pump, knowing you’re not just cooking it again.

For a deeper explanation of why the sequence matters, see:
Why You Shouldn’t Replumb the Pump Until the Leak Is Fixed

DIY Replumb or Call a Pro?

Basic equipment pad plumbing is pretty approachable for handy homeowners, especially when you’re dealing with a short run into and out of the pump with 1½” or 2″ PVC.

DIY makes more sense if:

• You can clearly see where the leak is and it’s at a union or simple joint.
• You have enough straight pipe length to cut and glue new pieces cleanly.
• You’re comfortable measuring pipe size and working with PVC primer and cement.

It’s better to call a repair tech if:

• Your equipment pad is a tight “spaghetti” of pipes where one bad cut means a major rebuild.
• Multiple lines (pool, spa, features) converge in one tight area.
• You already suspect the pump itself is at the end of its life and want to upgrade correctly.

We’re building a full DIY pump-union repair guide here:
DIY: How to Fix Leaks at Your Pump Unions (Step-by-Step)